It was my second full day in Syria — and I was discovering just how humid the country could be. The temperature was easily teetering between the high-30s to mid-40s. I went in expecting a dry heat and was taken by surprise at the crude humidity. But the heat was the last thing on everyone’s mind in the village of Marmarita.
The Marmarita Carnival is a big deal in Syria. As the country’s grandest festival unfolds, it reveals a larger-than-life experience where Syrians don a variety of costumes, dance, revel, and celebrate. This tradition, originally marking the Feast of Assumption, offers a rare opportunity to experience Syria in a way few Westerners have done before. It’s a great place to chat with locals, a few fellow travellers and get in on the excitement, no matter how high the heat.
A Western perspective of Syria often focuses on poverty, destruction, and war. However, there is no victim mentality here. We encountered Syrians from all walks of life who were delighted to welcome visitors. Some were genuinely surprised that there wasn’t a more significant influx of tourists. “Syria isn’t all scary,” one Carnival-goer said. “Look around. We’re having a party!” And a party it was. Confetti peppered our hair and an eclectic blend of sounds enveloped our senses. But beyond the revelry lies a more recent cultural heritage that dates back to the early 1970s. The carnival owes its existence to the collaborative endeavours of both the local community and members of the diaspora. Since 1972, they have jointly partaken in this vibrant celebration every August 14th, commemorating the Assumption of the Virgin—except for a brief hiatus spanning five years during the crisis from 2011 to 2015.
Victoria Horsley, an avid British traveller who has been to the country four times and counting, says that she was originally drawn to Syria for its UNESCO sites. However, inspired by the recommendations of friends, she decided to align her next expedition with the vibrant allure of the carnival season. “I had seen their photos and videos and I was very curious about it,” she said. “It’s just the complete opposite of what people outside of Syria think, so it was really good to be able to share that with people who follow me on Instagram and Facebook.” Horsley enthusiastically points out that the universal experience of joyfulness and the presence of lively parades and vibrant carnivals mirror festivities found in every corner of the globe.
To fully understand the carnival, we have to travel halfway across the world to Brazil.
Despite its religious origins, you’d be hard-pressed not to spot a knock-off Disney float passing by on the streets. The floats are all created by local people; they don’t have to adhere to a specific theme, explained archaeologist and tour guide Ophelia Kewan, who is affiliated with the Syrian tour company Golden Team. They can depict cartoons, embrace contemporary trends, or represent other cultures. Townspeople work day and night to put together their festival essentials, typically starting at the beginning of August. Fascinatingly, each neighbourhood has an idea and will put that idea into fruition.
Kewan, one of the Syrians who chose to remain amidst the turmoil, shares her perspective: “Even though we’ve had all the war… all that’s happened in our country, people are still doing it and still looking for reasons to be happy.” She emphasizes that it represents a beacon of hope in the region. “People come from around Syria and even from other countries to watch this festival.” Her point is proven — just look at Horsley and myself. Kewan believes that determination is one of the factors setting the Marmarita Carnival apart from its global counterparts.
So how did it all begin and when did it all begin?
Originating in the 1970s, spurred by the locals’ desire to enrich the festivities alongside the Feast of Assumption, then-Mayor George Asaad proposed the idea of a carnival. The inaugural celebration took place in August 1977, starting with poetry and songs echoing through the iconic town square. Over the years, this cultural extravaganza has evolved into the heart-filled spectacle we witness today.
Contrary to its origins alongside the Feast of Assumption, the Carnival transcends religious boundaries. It stands as a secular celebration, artfully intertwined with the town’s charm to captivate the influx of tourists. This fusion of history, culture, and modern exuberance creates an unmissable experience, drawing travellers into the heart of Marmarita’s lively tradition.